Chef Juan Ramón Cárdenas hoists up his signature cabrito, or roast goat kid.
When former Café Modern general manager Adrian Burciaga called on award-winning restaurateur Juan Ramón Cárdenas to be the first of many guest chefs at Café Modern in 2013, neither knew that this was just the beginning of what would later become a longtime partnership.
Eight years later, Burciaga and Cárdenas have teamed up to bring the acclaimed Mexican restaurant Don Artemio to the U.S., and the two have selected Fort Worth’s Museum Place to be the second home of this fine dining experience.
But their story begins before they became business partners. Burciaga was studying restaurant management at La Universidad Autónoma del Noreste in Saltillo — the capital of Coahuila in Northeastern Mexico — when, halfway through his curriculum, he was assigned a project that required the input of an expert. Cárdenas was managing his family’s restaurant at the time. When Burciaga called and asked to speak with somebody who could help, it was by sheer coincidence he was put in contact with Cárdenas. Later that same year, Burciaga invited Cárdenas to help him with another project. From that point forward, Cárdenas and his family became mentors for Burciaga, who was just entering into the industry.
While Cárdenas continued to pursue gastronomy in Saltillo, Burciaga moved to the U.S. in 2004 to manage restaurants. Conversation dwindled between the duo since going their separate ways, but it sparked again in 2008 when Burciaga became the manager for Ruth’s Chris Steak House.
Diners should expect a stylish, upscale ambiance at Don Artemio.
“When I started managing a steak house, I thought that I should call Juan Ramón and tell him what I was doing because it was similar to what he had done,” Burciaga says. “I wanted to tell him I was making progress with my career.”
Burciaga and Cárdenas stayed connected over the years, and it seemed only fitting that when Burciaga began inviting international guests to share the kitchen with the culinary team at Café Modern, he should start with somebody he knew.
“We saw each other after so many years, but when I picked him up at the airport, it felt so natural, like we hadn’t really been apart,” Burciaga says.
Together, the team worked to showcase the Saltillo cuisine to a new crowd. The evening wasn’t without its challenges, but their eventual success set them up for their current partnership.
“After Juan Ramón came back to guest chef in 2016, we kind of looked at each other and said, ‘Let’s keep this communication alive, and maybe one day we could do something together,’” Burciaga says.
Cárdenas is a third-generation restaurateur. His father lived in the U.S. for 14 years with the dream of one day opening a restaurant here. As sometimes happens, that dream was passed along to his son.
Cárdenas set out to search for the second location of his signature restaurant last year, and his sights were set on Texas. Bordering Coahuila, settling the restaurant in the state would give Cárdenas more opportunity to travel between businesses. Beyond that, Texas leverages a sweeping lead in beef production across the U.S and will enable the incoming steakhouse to source one of its key ingredients from local producers.
Between Burciaga’s familiarity with the food scene and the similarities between Saltillo and Fort Worth in both cuisine and culture, it seemed like a simple decision to locate here. The next step was narrowing their scope. With the Cultural District anticipating Crescent Real Estate’s $250 million mixed-use project, which includes a 200-room luxury hotel, the duo recognized that the area was rapidly developing as an economic and social focal point. When the opportunity to take over the former Mr. Gatti’s Pizza shop at 3268 W. Seventh St. came about, Cárdenas and Burciaga claimed it and signed a lease in mid-May.
Named for the late Mexican author Artemio de Valle Arizpe, Don Artemio will serve authentic dishes, including cabrito, steaks, homemade tortillas, and a selection of Mexican wines, mezcal, and tequila. Though their menu may differ from the traditional Tex-Mex that many are accustomed to, Burciaga and Cárdenas are confident that the local palate for beef and supporting standalone businesses will ensure their restaurant’s success.
Aside from the menu, the team says that it’s important that the ambiance also embody the Northeastern Mexican culture, including everything from architecture to quality of service.
Don Artemio will also offer cocktails alongside Mexican wines, mezcal, and tequila.
Construction is currently underway on the 5,300-square-foot site. The architecture will incorporate three building materials common in Saltillo — barro (Mexican clay), concrete, and wood.
“The contractor and architect have been to Mexico two times so that they can feel what we would like to transmit to our customers in Texas,” Cárdenas says.
Cárdenas will continue to act as the culinary director upon returning to Saltillo to continue to oversee the original Don Artemio and tend to his burgeoning catering business. To ensure the restaurant remains true to the Northeastern Mexican culture, the local chef who is soon to be named will be sent to Saltillo to train under Cárdenas.
Currently, the team is hoping to open in November.
“It’s been challenging times, but we’re really excited about how far we’ve come,” Burciaga says. “Juan Ramón and I are both passionate about gastronomy and hospitality. Even with our experience, we know we have a lot to learn. We’re looking forward to exploring and sharing our Mexican heritage in the Fort Worth community.”
What to Try When It Opens
Enchiladas de Queso Queso
Don Artemio’s No. 1 selling dish is its authentic enchiladas, dubbed Enchiladas de Queso Queso. This famous dish is topped with queso fresco (fresh cheese) and served with a signature mole sauce.
Deep-Fried Nopalitos
Another specialty is Don Artemio’s deep-fried nopalitos (cactus). Though not widely used in Texas, cactus is a popular addition to tacos, soups, and salads in Mexico. Cactus has a unique flavor that can be a bit sour for some. The way Don Artemio deep-fries its cactus offers an interesting texture with a little crunch.
Cabrito
Another of Cárdenas’ signature offerings is cabrito, or roast goat kid. Cabrito is known to have a sweet, somewhat gamey flavor with a tender texture. Cárdenas has leaned in on its versatility to include it in many of Don Artemio’s menu items, including its torta de cabrito con chorizo and stuffed smoked peppers.