Stephen Montoya
Almost 40 years ago, in 1984, manicurist and phenomenon TV personality Clara Peller coined the famous phrase “Where’s the beef” as part of a highly successful ad campaign for Wendy’s.
Although the rhetorical question was meant as a jab to other fast-food chains, the slogan also could be used for a new plant-based eatery at 1515 W. Magnolia Avenue on the Near Southside. However, instead of it being a negative slogan, Vice Burger could use it as a positive choice.
“Where’s the beef” fits its modus operandi perfectly, mainly because there is none to be found ... on purpose.
Vice Burger is the brainchild of Boulevard of Greens founder Charlsye Lewis and her husband Marcus Brunt. This quaint little 720-square-foot eatery, which was home to the Hawaiian-inspired Poke Poke, now boasts a full menu of vegan food which consists of many people’s guiltiest of cravings — bratwursts, hamburgers, and french fries. What sets this place apart though, is that the plant-based fare is guilt free.
“Our juicy plant-based burgers are not just another meal; they’re a flavor-packed fiesta for your taste buds,” Vice Burger's website says. “We’ve reinvented classic comfort food favorites and turned them into mouthwatering vegan delights that you won’t be able to resist.”
The menu consists of chicken nuggets, a Chili Vice Dog, a grilled cheese offering called the Cheesy Vice, and three options of burgers.
The first burger is the signature Vice Burger, which, if it wasn’t vegan, could fit on any McDonald’s menu. This “guilt free” option is served on a toasted sesame seed bun with your choice of a Beyond or Impossible Patty, Vice sauce (which is a take on Thousand Island dressing or McDonald’s secret sauce) American cheese, lettuce, tomato, onions, and Best Maid pickles. This burger is really like a vegan Big Mac. The only thing missing is — the beef. If this isn’t enough to entice your taste buds, this new eatery has a Double Vice Burger, just double the (um) meat?
The final burger on the menu is the Smoky Bacon Vice Burger. It consists of smokey Vice Sauce, two slices of vegan bacon, and grilled onions, along with a piece of pepper jack cheese served with your choice of a Beyond or Impossible Patty, lettuce, tomato, and Best Maid Pickles. There’s even a Vice Brat, served on a butter toasted bun with a Field Roast Stadium Link, chili, shredded cheese, and chopped onions.
In addition to the menu, the new look of this eatery has a simple vibe. The interior consists of a long galley section with an order counter on the right-hand side equipped with an open drink fridge and thin plank-style bar with several bar stools on the left. The best part of this spot is the outdoor patio area on the west side of the business, which consists of several tables looking out on Magnolia Avenue. Although it was cloudy the day I stopped by, I still enjoyed my “guilt free” burger.